Yosemite

What a busy week! Traffic is picking up, the people are arriving. Summer is right around the corner. I've been bummin' about not having enough time to sit down and write a blog on Yosemite. Man, what a trip. I can't even come close to capturing it for you, but I'll do my best.


I'd like to make some key points before I go any further:

-First off. It's not that bad, driving to Yosemite. It's about a hundred bucks roundtrip for the weekend, and I was able to keep myself stoked as all heck the entire way. Takes about 8 hours one way.

-Second, the rock is absolutely phenomenal. It's the mecca. I mean it - I've gotta live in Yosemite for a couple years at some point in my life. Sooner rather than later. I don't care if I have to scoop Ice Cream for tourists and sleep on the ground without a pad. It'll be worth it.

-Third, climbing in Yosemite is hard. How hard? Really hard. Really, really hard. I met climbers who routinely climb 5.13 sport, and they were talking about how the fifteen pitches of the Steck-Salathe (5.9) on the Sentinel were some of the scariest and most challenging climbing they'd ever done..

I quickly found that climbing cracks was where it was at. Lying back a little finger crack and working your feet up the slab, alternating feet, finding those super solid small jams - it's possibly one of the most amazing feelings in the world. Akin to floating, or flying. Something airy.

The fabulous first pitch of After Seven (5.8)

Face climbing is scary in Yosemite. I love face climbing, small crimps, technical stuff - but the intense friction component required for Yosemite face is really an art form. Granite is amazing rock, but face climbing will probably always be scary. Like. . .5.9 face climbs were terrifying. Not to mention runout, exposed, and all-together adventuresome.

Some random .10d on top-rope. What a wimp. . .

I stayed with my sister in Mountain View, but left super early (4:30am) to drive east to Highway 120. My sister, myself and my brother-in-law were all climbing in the park by 10:30 am. We started off with a perfect two-pitch crack - Jam Crack. Absolutely spectacular, and I definitely recommend it to people out after their first vertical day in the park. Fresh rappel anchors, perfect rock. You can find Jam Crack on the Sunnyside Bench crag, right next to lower Yosemite falls.

Second pitch of Jam Crack, absolutely superb.

We were beat after our first day - it was hot, the mosquitoes were plenty, and the crowds were definitely huge.



I passed out soon after dinner.

You'd be surprised how many unlikely Yosemite travelers you find - tourists who look as if they've never ventured outside of anything air conditioned, and flocks of girls in heels and mini-skirts. Definitely similar to culture-shock. Imagine sweaty, dirty, dirt-baggish looking folks trekking through packed crowds of pristine polo shirts, laden with gear, and you get the idea. It's very funny. There are definitely ways to escape it, however. . .



Our second day we were up at six thirty, headed to Manure Pile buttress, which is right to the east side of El Cap. A group had already claimed the Nutcracker, a Royal Robbins classic, and two bears were wandering around close by, so the three of us opted to jump on the first pitch of After Seven, and then finish the last five pitches of After Six. The climbs went straight up to the top of the buttress, slightly to the left side. The first pitch of After Seven was one of the best pitches of rock i've ever climbed, and the next five pitches were all incredibly exciting, with unique anchor opportunities and some really fun moves. It was a bit funny to have dudes in approach shoes and chalk bags freesolo'n right on by, while I was laden with pounds of gear, but I was humbled, and had a great time in the sunshine. You can access all three of the above-mentioned climbs from the El Cap picnic area. The buttress is maybe a minute walk from the parking area. Pick your passion!

Topping out on Manure Pile

It was still light, and after a brief dip in the Merced, we headed over to the more casual Swan Slab area, where I climbed a really fun flake and set up a top rope for a couple climbs. We wrapped up the evening in Camp Four with some of my sister's friends from Stanford, checkin' out the moves on Midnight Lightning, enjoying a brew or two. It was a really fun atmosphere - packed with climbers of all skill levels and disciplines, everyone lovin' it and stoked for the early morning call.

Lena's Lieback

Yosemite is a blast. Though I will probably wait to head back til late season (less mosquitoes, less heat, less people), it was the perfect long-weekend destination. I came back inspired, daunted, humbled, and with increased respect for the spirit present in those rocks. Yosemite is a very spiritual and magical place, and only off the often-ventured path do you discover this.

Several notes to keep in mind - Bring water. A lot of it. and lastly, camping is hard to find. Get in touch with the Park and see what's going on in this regard. If you want to stay in Camp Four, get there 60 minutes before they open (really early in the morning), and line up. You might get lucky. The other campsites are packed with RVs and generators and screaming children - climb hard, it helps you get to sleep quickly.

Climbs I definitely recommend with three stars:

Jam Crack (two fabulous pitches, crux in the second, 5.9)
After Six (Six pitches, 5.8)
The Nutcracker (Six-seven pitches, 5.8+)
After Seven (First pitch is the best, 5.8) Belay off the tree in the middle, or become inventive :)
Lena's Lieback, Swan Slab (5.6 or 5.8, I can't remember. Look out for the free-soloing kids)
Reed's Direct (5.10a, exposed and scary! Bring two #4 cams for the top, and save them!)
Reed's Regular Route (5.9, totally classic, one of the best in the valley)

I miss it already. It was unbelievably awesome. The sunset on El Cap and Half Dome is so magical.. glacial polished granite glistening like jewels.

Looking toward Half Dome from the top of Sunnyside Bench

I hope everyone is gonna have a fabulous weekend. Check out our fabulous Father's Day deal we have running through the whole weekend on the Patagonia Nano Puff. Only $99.99! Also, don't miss Steel Pulse at Britt tonight! Starts at 6:30pm. One of the U.K.'s most classic and talented Reggae bands - one of the most influential and successful.

See you in the hills.