AOS Adventures
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Lost Rocks
It has been a couple years since I have been to lost rocks, but I've come across some pictures rescently of that trip and it has inspired me to head back there. The lost rocks bouldering area is currently my favorite bouldering location.
It is located on the Northern (when I say Northern I mean as far north as you can get) coast of California. Driving from Ashland you head to Crescent City and then south along the coast. Drive until you get to a bridge that has golden bears on each side of the bridge and then take the next exit. At the stop sign take a left. Rhere is a car camping option if you want hookups, bathrooms, and water. This option isn't expensive but not exactly cheap either. If you are going the cheap route there is a free spot to camp. Follow the road until it turns to gravel and then roughly 1/2 mile later on the right there is a turnout, and that is where you can camp for free.
Just before the road turns to gravel it takes a 90 degree turn to the left. At the apex of the corner there is a driveway and a gate. This driveway (while can be an access to the beach and climbing) is also part of a Native American holy ground. In the past there has been issue's between the Native American's and climbers because the climbers have used/misused this area to get to the bouldering on the beach. It is my current understanding that the tension has been resolved, but please be respectful, and my recommendation is to use the alternative access to the beach.
The alternative access is further up the road from the free camp spot. There is an official lookout complete with a bathroom. At the lookout there is a trail head. Depending on the time of year and how frequently the trail has been used it can be fairly or excessively overgrown so be prepared.
Once you are down on the beach there is a lot of climbing. I still use a crash pad but many don't because the sand is soft for landing. However, there are a couple highballerish problems that I have fallen from and have been very happy to have my crash pad upon impact. If you feel like hauling a rope and your sport climbing rack with you there is a ridiculously hard rope route that is hidden and you have to find it. Personally, I don't think it is worth it but now you know it's there and is an option if you can find it.
There is a new book out Northern California Bouldering by Chris Summit and crew that has some info on the boulder problems. And, so far it is the best printed resource that I know of for the area. I would recommend making a weekend trip out of your visit to Lost Rocks. A good two to three days provides you with enough time to fully explore and not get bored. If you have time on the drive there during the summer time there are a lot of good swimming holes along the Smith river that offer a refreshing break.
Don't forget your binoculars because there is some really good whale watching spots. Also, it's the coast so be prepared for cool weather, and remember that you are climbing in a very dynamic area so don't forget about the tides changing.
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