Moab Utah

Meca: "The biggest, best thing. The most mega." (Urban Dictionary) There are few locations that can truly be described as the meca for their sport. Moab is one of those location, and is most definitely the rock climbing meca.




The reddish colored sandstone walls and towers loom in the distance as you approach, and they only get bigger, bigger, and bigger. There is an endless amount of climbing to be done, so be prepared and don't let it overwhelm you.

My recommendation for camping is to take a left on Hwy 128 just after you cross the Colorado on your way into Moab. Roughly 7 miles up the road will be Big Bend Campground. It is a BLM maintained camp ground and is very nice as well as reasonably priced $10/night. It is conveniently located in the middle of the majority of climbing locations. Castleton Tower is about 10 miles further up the river, and Wall Street is about 10 miles the other direction. The added bonus to Big Bend Campground is the bouldering (Big Bend Boulders in the guide books) is right across the street. Big Bend Boulders is a phenomenal place to bolder and following suite to all of Moab has some very challenging routes.







For climbing there isn't a much cooler place the Wall Street (aka Potash Road). It also offers an assortment of climbing level's including a few top-rope options. All the belaying could be done from the roof of you Winnebago with the tunes bumping. Just make sure you don't deck out on the hood. Beyond Wall Street, if you can climb 5.12 and have a lot of gear then you will be in heaven because the options are almost endless and only stifled by your physical ability and gear budget.




Water! It is the dessert after all, so you will need and consume a lot of water. There is a natural spring on the right hand side of the Hwy 128 when you turn off for Big Bend. It's the water that all the outfitters and who's-who's use. Drink at your own risk and if your paranoid filter it.



While your in town there is a nice laundromat, grocery store, and hostel (lazy lizard) if you don't want to camp. Also, be sure to go into Pagan Mountaineering while your there. The staff is a great resource, and they carry some pretty cool stuff too.



Whatever you do, do not poach camping. The area is patrolled heavily, and they will issue you or your group a ticket. Which, speaking from experience, is not the best way to start your morning.

Lost Rocks

It has been a couple years since I have been to lost rocks, but I've come across some pictures rescently of that trip and it has inspired me to head back there. The lost rocks bouldering area is currently my favorite bouldering location.



It is located on the Northern (when I say Northern I mean as far north as you can get) coast of California. Driving from Ashland you head to Crescent City and then south along the coast. Drive until you get to a bridge that has golden bears on each side of the bridge and then take the next exit. At the stop sign take a left. Rhere is a car camping option if you want hookups, bathrooms, and water. This option isn't expensive but not exactly cheap either. If you are going the cheap route there is a free spot to camp. Follow the road until it turns to gravel and then roughly 1/2 mile later on the right there is a turnout, and that is where you can camp for free.



Just before the road turns to gravel it takes a 90 degree turn to the left. At the apex of the corner there is a driveway and a gate. This driveway (while can be an access to the beach and climbing) is also part of a Native American holy ground. In the past there has been issue's between the Native American's and climbers because the climbers have used/misused this area to get to the bouldering on the beach. It is my current understanding that the tension has been resolved, but please be respectful, and my recommendation is to use the alternative access to the beach.



The alternative access is further up the road from the free camp spot. There is an official lookout complete with a bathroom. At the lookout there is a trail head. Depending on the time of year and how frequently the trail has been used it can be fairly or excessively overgrown so be prepared.



Once you are down on the beach there is a lot of climbing. I still use a crash pad but many don't because the sand is soft for landing. However, there are a couple highballerish problems that I have fallen from and have been very happy to have my crash pad upon impact. If you feel like hauling a rope and your sport climbing rack with you there is a ridiculously hard rope route that is hidden and you have to find it. Personally, I don't think it is worth it but now you know it's there and is an option if you can find it.





There is a new book out Northern California Bouldering by Chris Summit and crew that has some info on the boulder problems. And, so far it is the best printed resource that I know of for the area. I would recommend making a weekend trip out of your visit to Lost Rocks. A good two to three days provides you with enough time to fully explore and not get bored. If you have time on the drive there during the summer time there are a lot of good swimming holes along the Smith river that offer a refreshing break.



Don't forget your binoculars because there is some really good whale watching spots. Also, it's the coast so be prepared for cool weather, and remember that you are climbing in a very dynamic area so don't forget about the tides changing.