AOS Adventure

Sierra Nevada

2010-09-03T10:49:00.001-07:00

Well, it was a pretty eventful August this year. Nice time to take vacation.

I'm curious to see what everyone else has been doing too! So, once you've read this, feel free to leave a comment, a link, a something. I shall relate my adventures in the middle of California as best I can, and offer whatever insight I've come to in the last couple weeks.

Well, I took off with Monica Heiken on the morning of the 9th, headed to Yosemite. We drove all day, and were lucky enough to find a quiet spot at Cold Spring, right outside the valley.

After a fairly early night, we were up at six a.m.

Hah. . .
just kidding.

Actually, I slept in until like ten.

Then we made a leisurely breakfast. Really important part of the day.

At this point we decided that we should hike Half Dome. After getting some fresh ice for the cooler, we headed over towards Glacier Point and started trekkin' up with all the other folks towards Vernal Falls. We were in really bad moods by this point, and it was okay. To be quite honest, we probably started a bit late.

It was pretty hot, and it was a hard day of hikin'. Spot on though - last ones on the summit. We enjoyed an amazing sunset; it was great to be up there, all alone on the cables, and with no crowds on top.

Silence. Wind.

Sunset.

Damn tired. . . still stoked though!

After getting down, we began the drive to Tuolumne.

Small note here: Signage in Tuolumne is tough to navigate at night, regardless of the fact that the main road runs east to west, with no junctions. Better yet, campgrounds fill up quickly in the summer - definitely not many openings between one and two a.m.

So we found a spot off a dirt road, and slept. It was a very, very long day by this point. One of the longer ones I can remember.

By the time morning came, we were still tired. After sleeping in, we headed to Tenaya lake to make some breakfast and relax a bit.

We were headed out of Tuolumne by mid-afternoon.

Highway 120 runs basically east from Tuolumne to Lee Vining, and 395 runs north and south from there. After a stop for a milkshake, we headed towards Bishop.

Our backpacking destination was south of Lee Vining and north of Bishop - Rock Creek Canyon.

We arrived at Mosquito Flat by late afternoon, with intention to leave in the morning.

It's really not a bad drive in the Sierra. Everything is gorgeous and super alpine, and driving distances are fairly short - 'specially with two drivers. It's about an hour from the border of Yosemite to great backpacking, climbing, skiing, etc.

Looking down an upper section of Rock Creek Canyon

The morning came quickly.

By the afternoon we found ourselves at Ruby Lake, below Mono Pass. We swam, relaxed, made some dinner, and were sleeping as it got dark. The climb the next day was gonna be long!

We got a fairly quick start in the a.m. - oatmeal fueled crazies. We were over Mono Pass and headed southwest by one in the afternoon.

Mono Pass rises to just over 11,900 feet, though the peaks around it are much higher. It was roughly the highest point on our backpacking trip.

Though our original plan was to continue to Pioneer Basin that night, we found a beautiful little spot near a small creek, and chose to take an easy day instead. Hard to beat lying in soft grass next to an ice cold stream - especially after the long, hard, dusty slog over Mono Pass and down.

. . .Proved to be a good choice.

In the morning we were hiking down to the valley that holds Golden Creek. We saw several groups of people - everyone very nice - and had the usual yummy lunch right next to the water.

Looking north up Golden Creek

The mosquitos got worse as we headed closer to Pioneer Basin.

I had to remind myself that even though we were packin' in the right time of year for the Sierra, the season was still early because of the amount of snowpack (late snowpack). Pioneer is like a alpine marshy place - sort of meadow like, with incredible lakes and some very rocky patches.

Thus, the insects were still pretty bad.

Pioneer Basin was the worst though - everywhere else seemed fine.

Hate bear canisters

Luckily we found the best island ever - smack dab in the middle of the larger lake, in upper Pioneer. Plenty of breeze, and the best swimming.

We took an extra layover day.

Next, we headed down into the valley again, and back up Golden Creek to its head. Golden Lake was one of the higher lakes we camped at. We got there fairly early, so we set up camp, and I eventually scrambled up an easy 5th class ridge to the top of an adjacent peak.

The rock up there was phenomenal. I even found several slabby boulder problems, and one of the most perfect finger cracks i've seen in a while - 15-20 feet of perfect granite and precise finger locks. Very nice way to spend the afternoon above 11,000 feet, sending wilderness granite!

Looking south down Golden Creek, back towards Pioneer Basin

Golden Lake

In the morning we were out early - heading east back over Mono Pass, past Ruby Lake to our exit trailhead.

We'd hoped to stop at Pie in the Sky, located at the resort just below Rock Creek lake, for some. . . pie. (Apparently some of the best pie ever), but by the time we got there. . . the pie was sold out.

We were fairly depressed about that. We got some more ice for the cooler, cried a bit about our lack of pie, and continued on.

After a refuel stop in Lee Vining, we drove west back to Tuolumne. Before hitting the park border, we turned off and found a great camping spot in a meadow below a walk-in campground. It was nice to have a comfy night in the grass again, without all the dusty, dry air and knobby granite to lie on.

Still mosquitoes though. . .

And super awesome lenticular clouds!

Since we were so close to Tuolumne, we decided to spend the next day there.

We climbed Lembert dome, hung out for a while.

Then, suddenly plans got rearranged.

Realizing that we were somewhat tired for now of the incessant sun, and the dry air. . . we kept driving west.

Before we knew it, we were in San Francisco.

This was weird.

We kept on talking about the coast, and got super psyched up.

We were in Fisherman's Warf, downtown for dinner, walking around.

We definitely looked out of place - greasy, grimy, probably not smelling too good. But we went to the best restaurant around - Buena Vista Cafe, for the original U.S. Irish Coffee and seafood. Stuffed.

By sunset, we were out, headed northwest past the Golden Gate, Point Reyes, and Highway 1.

We spent the night on the beach south of Mendocino, after a lot of extra driving. It was a really late night, and all the campgrounds were either way too expensive or full. Sleeping in random locations isn't as easy when you're not in National Forest land. . .

The next day we drove north through a wonderfully foggy California coast, and by the early evening we were in the Humboldt Redwoods!

Our last day was spent at Gold Bluffs, near Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. This is without a doubt my all-time favorite campsite on the California coast. Right on the beach, and absolutely beautiful regardless of the weather. . . get there before 1pm if you want a spot!

We cooked alfredo pasta with salmon, butter, parmesan - adventured around the beach - and tried hard not to think about all of the things we had to do upon our return the next day.

Fern Canyon. 1 mile-ish north from Gold Bluff

The open road has magic that can't be compared with anything.

All photos - Monica Heiken

Las montañas de la trinidad

2010-08-02T15:28:00.000-07:00

What an incredible wilderness area, those Trinity Alps.

We're so lucky, living here in southern Oregon. We have access to some of the best wilderness areas in the entire nation - all within several hours of driving.

I was lucky enough to have a bit of vacation. My good friends Torrey Johnson and Dashiel Bivens accompanied myself as branches of a guiding trio - providing wilderness experience for incoming High School sophomores. What a lovely bunch of boys. Serious though - we all had a blast, guides and the guided.

We left on Saturday 7/24 - early in the morning. We experienced a blown radiator cap on Dash's Honda soon after passing Etna, but we managed to make it to the TH in relatively short time! Bit of a later start for a long first day, but it worked great.

Snowslide Lake, with Little Caribou to the west

Our first night was spent in the Caribou Lake basin - Little and Big Caribou, Snowslide lake. We camped at the latter, and were eating dinner in the dark.

Photo by Dashiel Bivens

The next morning we were up and hiking south. We crossed the top of Sawtooth Ridge above Caribou Lake in the afternoon, and after enduring a tough evening downpour, and some awesome thunderstorm weather, we pitched a hasty camp on the northeast side of Emerald Lake. It lasted maybe 30 minutes to an hour.

Caribou Lake, below Sawtooth Ridge

Can you say ex-Glacier?
Photo by Dashiel Bivens

Our next day was a much-needed layover in the Emerald/Sapphire/Mirror valley. Relatively heavy packs, and general business of providing services beyond the personal level made for a strenuous couple days! We were all stoked though, and the boys and Torrey and Dash and I enjoyed a day hike through the valley to Sapphire and Mirror Lakes. I got whipped into shape quick. Mirror Lake was frigid. One of the coldest I've entered in a long time - but awesome. So clear afterward. The approach up the valley had some inspiring views. Waterfall after waterfall.

Sapphire Lake!

Photo by Dashiel Bivens

Waterfall below Mirror Lake

Sub 40 degree water

The third day was our longest in terms of mileage. We hiked south to Morris Meadows, and then up over a pass into the Deer Creek drainage. Nine and a half miles later, we were making camp in some large boulders beneath Luella Lake. Really awesome little secret spot.

Photo by Dashiel Bivens

Upper Deer Creek Drainage, looking southwest

In the morning we were up early, and hiking east to Granite Lake. I'd never been, and was very excited. The climb from the valley was short and intense. By one p.m. we were at the lake, and circumnavigating to find the ideal spot. The rocks on the southeast part of the lake provide awesome exposure to sun in the morning, and a cut in the amount of biting insects you encounter. Plus, the swimming is great. We enjoyed a leisurely day in the sun - tanning, swimming, replenishing our water supply. I was tempted to summit the ridge running the length of Granite Lake's basin, but decided against it as the sun fell lower and lower. I'll come back for it!

Granite Lake

We encountered rescue helicopters that day. A scout, and then a larger chopper an hour later - flying super low. I have yet to talk to the USFS about it, but I will - we were all curious as to what had occurred. Something requiring evacuation via aircraft! I'd never seen a helicopter fly so close to a ridgetop before.

We were up early again the next day, and found ourselves back up on the ridge summit by noon. Hiking north below Seven Up Peak, we enjoyed an awesome panorama of views throughout some of the best parts of the Wilderness. Sawtooth mountain, and the whole glacial shield-like formation of the ridges adjacent to it are so awesome from a distance. I love it.

We took a late lunch, and instead of descending into Bowerman meadows, cut cross-country to Horseshoe Lake across a ridge and a small valley. This was an excellent decision, and it saved us about two and a half hours of grueling ascent in the late afternoon. It's pretty clear on a topo which way to do this cut - if you have a large group spread out in the meadow, it clearly sees a lot of traffic in this regard.

Our last two days were fairly laid-back. We enjoyed it immensely. Real vacation, with some serious wilderness. Both Horseshoe and Ward Lakes are a bit less cold than the rest. Ward's swimming isn't ideal, but Horseshoe has the best camp/swim/climb rock around, on the west side of the lake. Complete with bear-hang tree on site!

Somewhere between Horseshoe and Ward Lakes, my camera suffered a malfunction. I'll have to send it back to Canon to get the lense repaired after I return from the Sierra. Such is life with technology..

Photo by Dashiel Bivens

Ward Lake was the last day, and it was a great way to relax and exit the wilderness with calm and poise. I took a couple naps. We were on the road the following day by 1 pm - south to Weaverville for a stop at NAPA Auto (replacement radiator cap), and east to Redding.

Redding. *sigh*

I avoid this particular city like the plague, but our clients had specifically requested In-and-Out Burger. There is but one in the area. Luckily it was literally in, and then out.

We arrived home on Saturday the 31st, in the mid-evening.

I can't even capture the refreshing feeling I've had for the last couple days! Exiting the wilderness is hard for me in many ways - I often feel a disconnect from people around me, from myself, and sometimes my moods play havok. It's some type of post-wilderness depression. I don't know if I can really quantify this for you. No doubt it's been the same for this 8-day trip, but the Trinities always provide the most refreshing perspective, and they take care of you in ways that other mountains can't even compare with. I view the wilderness as a type of medicine, and this trip was so necessary for my mental stability! I wish photos could do such a beautiful place justice, but they never will.

Photo by Dashiel Bivens

I've felt so much more healthy and clear-headed as a result of this trip. The magic of the Trinity Alps truly goes much deeper than most really wish to attend.

Sapphire Lake

Panorama by Dashiel Bivens

What's the best part? The best part is that backpacking season is just beginning!

Go. Get it.

Snow coverage is still present, but it is all very doable. Even the Canyon Creek drainage is on-point right now. We crossed the Sawtooth Ridge above Caribou Lake without incident or trouble. We encountered a men's group (yup) who had high hopes of crossing from Mirror to Canyon Creek Lakes. I doubt they accomplished this, considering the types of gear they had brought, but it sounded like an awesome idea to me. If you're stoked on that sort of ultralight mountaineering, bring a pair of 4-6 point trekking crampons and a self arrest pole, and have at it. Woo!

Mosquitoes aren't so bad this year either. I've seen so, so much worse in the Trinity Alps. I mean, like to the point where even DEET doesn't do anything. It's not like that this year! Sure, bring a tent/mosquito net/etc - but strive to find sites that have minimal tree coverage above all, and exposure to wind - I slept out without tent, net, etc for five nights in a row without suffering at all - it's all in the site selection. Those bushes and trees provide mosquitoes with the elemental protection they need.

If you have any specific questions, need maps, or any type of help whatsoever - contact us at the store (541) 488-1202.

Alternatively, feel free to email Web Support

Thanks for reading, and namaste to you.

Not victory - but success

2010-07-12T12:43:00.000-07:00

Encouraged by gradually clearing weather, I decided to give Shasta another go this last weekend.

I slept in a bit, spent a leisurely day of swimming and relaxing, and left Ashland to drive south by seven p.m.

By nine p.m. I was at Bunny Flat trailhead and hiking towards Horse Camp. The weather really shaped up nicely - not cold at all, no wild thunderstorms, and beautifully clear stars as far as the eye could see.

I reached Horse Camp a little bit later, and mingled with the random groups of hikers and climbers for a bit, then took off across trail. I climbed up the side of Green Buttes all the way to the base of Sargent's Ridge proper - hoping to continue to the top in one push. This didn't work. By about one a.m. I was pretty tired. I could see the faint lights of a couple tents at Helen Lake far below, and I eventually decided to make a quick bivy for a nap, some tea, and some warm soup. I traversed for a while, and eventually found a suitable spot - the wind was the killer. I ended up actually downclimbing a small rocky section to Helen Lake to find a more mellow spot.

This 'quick bivy' was one of the worst ones I've had in a while. On the Mugs Stump Bivy scale the location would probably have been very favorable, but I wasn't so stoked on needing to stop. In an effort to go light & fast, I removed several crucial bulky items from my pack - mostly bivy gear, since I hadn't actually planned on stopping. I did have my Ridgerest with me, however, so I wasn't going to freeze outright. I made tea, some soup, and then snuggled up with my thin foam pad - somewhere around one thirty. I'd removed my boots and stuffed them in my pack, and in order to dry my socks out a bit I ended up wrapping my legs and feet in my down jacket and emergency tarp. I pulled on my nano puff and my shell, as well as a thin fleece hat, and just huddled.

You could call it sleep, but that would be fairly inaccurate.

Around two-thirty I'd had enough. At least, I felt a bit more rested, and I was ready to start moving. One other climber was just waking up, and he got the drop on me by about twenty minutes. I followed his headlamp as he climbed. Soon after he was off, I was packed, and climbing diagonally back up towards the ridge on climber's right of Avalanche Gulch. Route finding wasn't difficult, but there were some exposed rock bands that definitely gave me pause up higher - bits of loose rock, and in some cases, a serious lack of snowpack. I climbed carefully. One of my favorite sections of climbing on Shasta is super accessible for everyone! Directly up from Helen Lake to Sargent's - awesome steep climbing, and really fun when the conditions are hard. It is really cool to see climbers headlamped up, moving slowly below you. Eventually I traversed to the upper part of Avalanche Gulch, right around Thumb Rock. Within the hour, more and more headlamps began appearing. Around 12,500 feet, pale blue light was just starting to creep onto the horizon. It was about 4:45 a.m. I counted more than twenty-five headlamps mingling about in the flats of Helen Lake's basecamp, far below. This number would increase, and the steady stream of lights eventually formed a small chain.

I suppose you could claim that you climb Shasta solo, but in reality, unless you're doing a seldom traveled route - Casaval, or more obscure routes on the north side, you're gonna be with people in the later season. In winter you get a bit more solitude. I climbed throughout the night east of Horse Camp, but never had the sensation of being truly alone - whether from the sight of lighted tents, or climbers below me in the gulch, Mt. Shasta has a community sort of feeling to it. Nice people you meet up in the hills sometimes!

By the time I was above Thumb Rock, at about 13,400 feet, the sun was coming up. The orange glow you get up there is so beautiful - so silent, illuminating everything in a glorious panorama. I was about 800 feet shy of the summit when the sun finally crested the side of the ridge - flooding the snowy slopes with glowing light. I stopped for a bit to admire the sight, catch my breath, and have a quick snack (A Clif Bar and Shot Bloks - with a lot of water, they really work well).

I was tired at this point. It's a lot of work to climb all through the night with virtually no sleep. My headache had arrived, and I was even feeling a bit loopy - mix of mild nausea and light of head. But it soon dissipated. Nothing that H20 can't cure!

By 6:40 a.m. I was on the summit plateau, crunching my way over the icy, glowing snow towards the summit pinnacle. I passed two climbers descending as I reached the summit. It was such a gorgeous, clear day! Visibility was awesome, and the sun felt great after an icy, chilly night of climbing. I was on the top for about ten minutes - enough time to shoot a little video panorama and make a phone call, then it was time to head back down.

Unfortunately I was a little bit early on the summit. To my dismay, the snow was still super icy almost the whole way down. This basically meant that glissading was out of the question - it was a long, long downclimb on some icy slopes. I was very happy to eventually reach Helen Lake, from where I could glissade a significant amount towards Horse Camp.

I cut across the valley from Horse Camp, meandering through snowfields and huge bare spots, and eventually ended up at Bunny Flat - right around noon.

All in all, I felt super solid about the climb. I wasn't as fast as I could have been, i'm sure, but I climbed at a fairly consistent pace all night, managed to go really light (pack weighed in just under 28 lbs!), and descended early.

Mt. Shasta cooperated beautifully, and I was very thankful for the weather window and the safe climb.

Conditions right now on Shasta are suprisingly good! There's a good amount of snow coverage all over, and though rock fall and wet avalanches still pose significant danger in the warmer parts of the day, there are plenty of ways to mitigate these risks!

I really do recommend climbing early and descending early. I met groups and groups of climbers on my descent - I was third on the summit at seven, and passed maybe forty people on the way down. The bulk of them weren't going to see the summit before noon. Not that this is especially dangerous, but the potential for rockfall is much greater in the hotter parts of the afternoon. Regardless of not being able to glissade because of the icy slopes, I was very thankful to be out of that bowling alley of a gulch before the heat picked up. So, climb early, descend early - bring plenty of drinking water with you outright - most of all, know when to turn around. The descent takes just as much effort and concentration as does the climb to the top.

Both the upper sections of Casaval and Sargent's ridge are in good condition right now - there is some moderately technical routefinding through rock bands and some exposed sections, but the majority of it is very reasonable for confident and experienced climbers. Below 9,000 feet expect plenty of scree and rock sections - to be quite honest, you don't really need crampons on these sections until higher up. But wear your helmet - you have no idea how many ascending climbers I passed on the way down from the summit with their helmets casually strapped on their packs - you know, between the hours of 9:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

If you bring a helmet, and leave it on your pack. . .

Then you might as well not bring a helmet at all.

And that seems a bit weird, right? Considering Mt. Shasta is renowned for accidents involving falling rock and ice. In fact, when looking up from Lake Helen, you can clearly see track upon track from where large rocks have detached and galumphed merrily along for thousands of vertical feet.

Thus, we can conclude that one should a) bring a climbing helmet, and b) wear said climbing helmet. Love your life, right?

Avalanche gulch is always non-technical, though just as strenuous and demanding as always. In retrospect - climbing Shasta in one day makes for a very, very long day. But it is always worth it, of course. I was exhausted, and swearing somewhere inside that it was the last time I ever did it in one day again without skis, but I was stoked to be up there with such perfect weather and easy climbing conditions. I love alpine climbing in its simplest form - each and every small step it takes to get to the top makes you stronger. It doesn't have to be fun to be fun, right?

I'll probably be headed up tomorrow or next weekend to tackle a different route before the coverage is lost, but until then enjoy the small video mashups Travis created from my footage. In three parts. Doesn't quite do the scale or beauty of that mountain justice, but it may provide some perspective and entertainment. I tend to ramble..

I urge everyone interested to get out on Shasta before the better part of the season comes to an end (two-three weeks max!) - even if just for a climb to Helen Lake, or a hike to Horse Camp. Plenty of wonderful climbers and hikers alike mingling around both locations, and even the view from the valley is worth the drive to Mt. Shasta City.

If you have questions regarding Shasta in whatever capacity, stop in to the shop and pick our brains!

Cheers y'all...

Bummer

2010-07-09T00:16:00.000-07:00

I got turned around from Shasta by some gnarly thunderstorms! I was watching from the old highway, near the Pilot Rock access road - and the forecast was pretty dismal. Really awesome lightning though. Lit up the whole valley. I was all packed and ready to be climbing by midnight, so it was hard to turn around.

It's a shame - second weekend in a row where it hasn't worked out. I'm gonna wait and see if the forecast for tomorrow changes - if it is favorable, the plan is to climb from Bunny flat around 10 pm-11pm, past Horse Camp to Casaval Ridge, and eventually the summit - no later than 8 am.

But, either way a crew is climbing all day at Rattlesnake tomorrow. Come join the fun - we'll be out there by 9, swimming by 6 pm.

Enjoy your Friday!

Hot, hot heat

2010-07-08T10:47:00.000-07:00

Ooooer!

The heat's got us cookin' this week. It's supposed to be ninety-five degrees today? Chances of thunderstorms, some crazy evening clouds, and plenty of heat to keep you satisfied during the day. I was off in the relative cool of the fairy ponds yesterday evening - enjoying some relax time.

If I didn't have to be at work on weekdays, I'd be out at the coast right now though. Or on the river. Or i'd be up somewhere high, where it's windy (in theory).

I hope everyone had a grand Fourth of July. This weekend was supposed to be adventure weekend on Shasta - however my solo trip was eventually cancelled. In essence, I got persuaded to stick around for the festivities. I slept through the parade, which was wonderful, and enjoyed a leisurely afternoon of BBQ and brews.

Travis enjoyed a leisurely weekend as well - Saturday he rode the Salmon River Loop down in California - 100 miles, starting in Etna, over 10k of vertical! Absolutely beautiful country down there. I was stoked to hear that Travis and team were hitting upwards of 60 mph on the downhills. Get 'em boys.

And this week? Travis, Davi, Bryant, Sarah, Mike and myself have all been hard at work - advising, selling, organizing, consulting, and facilitating. My weekend starts tomorrow! I'm off to Shasta finally to climb Friday and Saturday - about time I made up for my slacking.

Also, I should note that a group of local climbers and myself are heading up to the Greensprings tonight, 6:30 p.m., to meet with some folks from the Mail Tribune - they're doing a story on local climbing. If anyone wants to join, please feel free. We're meeting at the shop, or you can meet at the crag any time after seven!

There will be plenty of adventure coming your way soon - throughout the end of July and most of August! The Trinity Alps, the Sierra Nevada, plenty of backcountry climbing locations, and some awesome road trippin'. Stay tuned - and enjoy the sunshine!

The Dance

2010-06-29T12:00:00.001-07:00

Now we can finally do the dance!

What dance do you speak of?

The summer dance of course! The grill-is-fired-up and I just-picked-up-some of-that-new-Lagunitas-seasonal-release type of dance. Sort of like funk, but better.

Don't have your summer dance down pat? Or do you feel unsure as to what I'm talking about? I'm sorry, but I can't help you. Summer is a wild time of year - done differently by everyone.

Alright,

So I've noticed in the last two weeks that we're getting an increased amount of inquiries with regards to backpacking in the Marble Mountains Wilderness and Trinity Alps Wilderness. It's definitely that time of year now, but we've got an interesting twist this season that I think everyone should be aware of!

I'd save packing through both Wilderness areas until August and September. Don't get me wrong - they're my favorite areas on almost the entire west coast, with the exception of the Sierra Nevada - but with 140% of normal snowpack this season, most of that extra falling very late, both the bugs and snow are going to be very thick for a while yet. Snow levels are still around 5,000 feet in some areas, meaning that the Forest Service trail crews still have some work to do. I don't know, has anyone else ever been to the Trinity Alps in July? The swarm of biting insects is enough to make it miserable in the evenings. With this much snow, we're not going to be able to climb high enough to escape the bugs until August!

If it were me, I'd pick the Rogue River trail or a Lost Coast trip to tide over the backpacking desire until August/September. The Kalmiopsis Wilderness is also a lovely choice, though the concentration of poison oak is very high. If anyone has any specific questions about any of these locations, come in to the store and pick our brains. They all pretty much allow easy access to water to beat the heat, but with no worries about full Gore-Tex boots and gaiters on a hot day!

Anyways, that's my two cents.

I was at the coast this weekend, as well as the Illinois river, and that water feels great. We're gonna have clear, hot weather all week, and great flow all-around - it's the perfect week for boating or some time at the beach, and also the best week for kicking back with friends on these late evenings. Longest day of the year was the 21st, so don't waste any time!

Have a nice week folks.

Yosemite

2010-06-18T17:24:00.000-07:00

What a busy week! Traffic is picking up, the people are arriving. Summer is right around the corner. I've been bummin' about not having enough time to sit down and write a blog on Yosemite. Man, what a trip. I can't even come close to capturing it for you, but I'll do my best.

I'd like to make some key points before I go any further:

-First off. It's not that bad, driving to Yosemite. It's about a hundred bucks roundtrip for the weekend, and I was able to keep myself stoked as all heck the entire way. Takes about 8 hours one way.

-Second, the rock is absolutely phenomenal. It's the mecca. I mean it - I've gotta live in Yosemite for a couple years at some point in my life. Sooner rather than later. I don't care if I have to scoop Ice Cream for tourists and sleep on the ground without a pad. It'll be worth it.

-Third, climbing in Yosemite is hard. How hard? Really hard. Really, really hard. I met climbers who routinely climb 5.13 sport, and they were talking about how the fifteen pitches of the Steck-Salathe (5.9) on the Sentinel were some of the scariest and most challenging climbing they'd ever done..

I quickly found that climbing cracks was where it was at. Lying back a little finger crack and working your feet up the slab, alternating feet, finding those super solid small jams - it's possibly one of the most amazing feelings in the world. Akin to floating, or flying. Something airy.

The fabulous first pitch of After Seven (5.8)

Face climbing is scary in Yosemite. I love face climbing, small crimps, technical stuff - but the intense friction component required for Yosemite face is really an art form. Granite is amazing rock, but face climbing will probably always be scary. Like. . .5.9 face climbs were terrifying. Not to mention runout, exposed, and all-together adventuresome.

Some random .10d on top-rope. What a wimp. . .

I stayed with my sister in Mountain View, but left super early (4:30am) to drive east to Highway 120. My sister, myself and my brother-in-law were all climbing in the park by 10:30 am. We started off with a perfect two-pitch crack - Jam Crack. Absolutely spectacular, and I definitely recommend it to people out after their first vertical day in the park. Fresh rappel anchors, perfect rock. You can find Jam Crack on the Sunnyside Bench crag, right next to lower Yosemite falls.

Second pitch of Jam Crack, absolutely superb.

We were beat after our first day - it was hot, the mosquitoes were plenty, and the crowds were definitely huge.

I passed out soon after dinner.

You'd be surprised how many unlikely Yosemite travelers you find - tourists who look as if they've never ventured outside of anything air conditioned, and flocks of girls in heels and mini-skirts. Definitely similar to culture-shock. Imagine sweaty, dirty, dirt-baggish looking folks trekking through packed crowds of pristine polo shirts, laden with gear, and you get the idea. It's very funny. There are definitely ways to escape it, however. . .

Our second day we were up at six thirty, headed to Manure Pile buttress, which is right to the east side of El Cap. A group had already claimed the Nutcracker, a Royal Robbins classic, and two bears were wandering around close by, so the three of us opted to jump on the first pitch of After Seven, and then finish the last five pitches of After Six. The climbs went straight up to the top of the buttress, slightly to the left side. The first pitch of After Seven was one of the best pitches of rock i've ever climbed, and the next five pitches were all incredibly exciting, with unique anchor opportunities and some really fun moves. It was a bit funny to have dudes in approach shoes and chalk bags freesolo'n right on by, while I was laden with pounds of gear, but I was humbled, and had a great time in the sunshine. You can access all three of the above-mentioned climbs from the El Cap picnic area. The buttress is maybe a minute walk from the parking area. Pick your passion!

Topping out on Manure Pile

It was still light, and after a brief dip in the Merced, we headed over to the more casual Swan Slab area, where I climbed a really fun flake and set up a top rope for a couple climbs. We wrapped up the evening in Camp Four with some of my sister's friends from Stanford, checkin' out the moves on Midnight Lightning, enjoying a brew or two. It was a really fun atmosphere - packed with climbers of all skill levels and disciplines, everyone lovin' it and stoked for the early morning call.

Lena's Lieback

Yosemite is a blast. Though I will probably wait to head back til late season (less mosquitoes, less heat, less people), it was the perfect long-weekend destination. I came back inspired, daunted, humbled, and with increased respect for the spirit present in those rocks. Yosemite is a very spiritual and magical place, and only off the often-ventured path do you discover this.

Several notes to keep in mind - Bring water. A lot of it. and lastly, camping is hard to find. Get in touch with the Park and see what's going on in this regard. If you want to stay in Camp Four, get there 60 minutes before they open (really early in the morning), and line up. You might get lucky. The other campsites are packed with RVs and generators and screaming children - climb hard, it helps you get to sleep quickly.

Climbs I definitely recommend with three stars:

Jam Crack (two fabulous pitches, crux in the second, 5.9)
After Six (Six pitches, 5.8)
The Nutcracker (Six-seven pitches, 5.8+)
After Seven (First pitch is the best, 5.8) Belay off the tree in the middle, or become inventive :)
Lena's Lieback, Swan Slab (5.6 or 5.8, I can't remember. Look out for the free-soloing kids)
Reed's Direct (5.10a, exposed and scary! Bring two #4 cams for the top, and save them!)
Reed's Regular Route (5.9, totally classic, one of the best in the valley)

I miss it already. It was unbelievably awesome. The sunset on El Cap and Half Dome is so magical.. glacial polished granite glistening like jewels.

Looking toward Half Dome from the top of Sunnyside Bench

I hope everyone is gonna have a fabulous weekend. Check out our fabulous Father's Day deal we have running through the whole weekend on the Patagonia Nano Puff. Only $99.99! Also, don't miss Steel Pulse at Britt tonight! Starts at 6:30pm. One of the U.K.'s most classic and talented Reggae bands - one of the most influential and successful.

See you in the hills.

2010-06-09T11:05:00.000-07:00

Well, last weekend was less than exciting. Frank, Mike, and myself all worked both days - enjoying the mix of both clear and strange weather, and our lovely customers.

Travis had some races up in Portland. Due to an error with timing, he beat second place by twenty minutes. Alright, he's not that fast. However, Travis is still very fast. Faster than you or me. I'm sure once they get their times sorted out up there, he'll find out that he placed very well.

At least for me, all this work and little amount of play is enough to substantially reduce morale. Luckily we're not stranded at sea, or we'd have issues. Here at the AOS we find ways of improving morale - this includes but is not limited to: dancing, tying knots, talking in weird voices, making bagel sandwiches, making fun of each other, and talking about people in 3rd person while they're present.

All of this works fairly well in keeping us motivated and excited. When these activities fail, we have an eight cup coffee-maker.

Oh! I should mention a note about our most recent SOU graduate, and 'morale buster' (This is actually a positive label, though it seems harsh). Sarah Spector somehow managed to graduate this last Saturday 'on good faith', though she still has three credits left to complete! We're very proud of her, and we are also very excited to be seeing more of her around the shop. Learn more about Sarah here. Stop in and give her a big high-five.

So, though the weekend was fairly depressing, Frank and I managed to get out climbing at the Greensprings on Sunday evening. A group of us from the shop joined several other climbers up at the crag last night as well. It was very refreshing to see so many people out on the rock! Michael Daole, our ski-tech. Mike Reinert, our encyclopedia. Even Mackenzie Duffy from the Rogue Rock Gym! First time in a while that i've seen more than one rope up at once. We got a bit of a drizzle around nine, but everyone was very happy to be out.

I'm not entirely sure what the rest of the staff will be up to this weekend, but I do hope that it is full of adventure and activity. I will be driving south to Yosemite on Friday night to climb some multipitch for the weekend, and I'll be back by Tuesday. Hopefully the weather holds - it's looking great so far.

Before we know it July will be here, so take advantage of the more moderate temperatures we're having this month! I was out in the park earlier this week on a sunny day and it was lovely - not too hot, not too cold. Whatever you find yourself doing this weekend, I hope that it is exciting and safe.

Cheers.

Summer is here. Maybe Thursday if we're lucky.

2010-06-01T10:56:00.001-07:00

Well, this Memorial Day weekend was spectacular! It finally felt like summer to me, if only for those several days of sun.

Frank actually didn't end up going to the Marble Mountain Wilderness this weekend.

Funny enough, I knew that last week - soon after I wrote last week's post - but I purposefully decided to withhold it from you. The expedition has been postponed temporarily, pending snow-coverage. Apparently Frank didn't feel like digging out the cave entrance (Come on, Frank).

Frank Debaugh did, however, encounter incredibly thin snowpack on Mt. Mcloughlin. It was a less-than successful day of skiing. However, the Mammut Nirvana backcountry pack that Frank was carrying had a very successful day. Observe, the holiest of holy ski-carry systems - doin' double duty.

And Travis?
I never know what Travis does with his weekend. I think it usually involves bicycles.

Also - just a reminder to take care of yourself! Some of our lovely staff members were feeling a bit under the weather recently. Reminds the rest of us to eat healthy and get plenty of sleep!

I was lucky enough to enjoy the company of my whole family from New York City and the Bay Area this weekend - both sisters and my brother-in-law. I have several family members that love to climb as well! We spent a family day at Greensprings and climbed several routes, including Marge's Navel, and the classic Razor Crack. We had the whole crag to ourselves!

Marge's Navel (5.8)

Razor Crack (5.8, 5.11 var) gear to 3 inches.

As you local climbers know, both of these climbs are perfect for casual days at the crag, (and family outings, apparently) and they have excellent rap bolts. Marge's Navel can also be climbed all the way to the top past the first set of anchor bolts for a 'Full Marge', at 5.11a. Razor Crack has some of the burliest rap chains i've seen, period! Rock quality on both climbs ranges from good to great, and Razor Crack has some fun moves that are easily protectable. Stem without using the crack for the 5.11 variation!

Of course climbing is always most fun when you have more than one day in which to adventure, but on lazy Sundays with the family, sometimes the barbecue and the local microbrew can be more appealing! Which . . . was the case this weekend.

So, what did you do with your Memorial Day weekend? Boating, hiking, climbing, skiing? Entertain us with your stories - on our Facebook, at our front counter, or in the comment box below!

It's gonna be a busy week for everyone it would seem, but Summer is fast approaching!
Take care, and we'll see you all in the hills this weekend.

Prohibition

2010-05-25T15:48:00.000-07:00

Well, the weather this weekend was prohibiting. Something like this:

I don't know about you, but I had all sorts of plans - all successively foiled by lack of sunshine. I sat in the office last Friday, observing the weather from City of Rocks, ID all the way to the coast, and back down to Yosemite - sobbing uncontrollably. NOAA gave me a mix of both 'it sucks' and 'we can't provide accurate weather data at this time'. This actually translated to 'it just sucks', but I held out hope for a longer time than was probably healthy.

However, adventures this weekend included several exciting indoor activities!

The first was, of course, sleep. I slept a lot. It was really nice. I always feel like sleep is an adventure anyways - you never know if you're going to get much of it, never know whether you're going to have crazy dreams or just hibernate like a piece of timber. Or, take for example the mornings where you wake up in a very curious location, or wake up in a completely different location. Imagine the invigorating suspense and sheer joy involved with such types of sleep. Adventurous sleeping is an art that should be respected and practiced regularly. I will refrain from informing you of where I slept, since that might be incriminating, but suffice it to say that it worked out okay.

The second exciting activity took place with help from our local Rogue Rock Gym - Joey, James, Kevin, and Jesse are all doing a fabulous job of keeping those little plastic knobbies organized in stimulating ways, and Claire and Mackenzie always have cheerful smiles to share! Though Smith, Yosemite, City of Rocks, and the like were all out of the question, climbing was still to be had!

In other news:
Frank Debaugh has some plans to trek to Bigfoot Cave in the Marble Mountain Wilderness this coming weekend. One of the deepest and coldest caves in North America, Bigfoot Cave is both extensive and insanely vertical. I asked Frank what he planned to wear, and he informed me that he'd be rockin' his 3m wetsuit. I haven't asked Frank what sort of food he's planning on bringing, but i'm sure it'll be delicious. If anyone wants to get their alpine caving in with Frank this weekend, i'm sure he'll take some additions to his adventure team. Inquire before Friday! We're open every day this week 10-6. Sort of like every week.

Also, a note: If you plan on attending Frank's mysterious cave-a-thon this weekend, make sure you bring extra socks and gear that you don't mind getting insanely dirty and/or gnarly. Also, make sure you watch out for this guy.

If the weather holds, I'll most likely be off catching up on some trad/sport climbing adventure on either Saturday or Sunday.

What are you doing with your memorial day weekend? Make it memorable! Way I see it, everyone only has a finite number of heartbeats left. Why waste any of them? Just because some of us here at the Ashland Outdoor Store are secretly terrified of inclement weather, doesn't mean that you've gotta be! If you've got the scoop on some awesome adventure this weekend, share it with us, by all means.

I'll leave you all with a small selection of 'inspiring photos', and a link to a truly inspiring video put on by Patagonia last Tin Shed season. If you missed it, check out Free South Africa. These guys are incredibly talented climbers, but they also apply full value to one of my favorite sayings: "There's no such thing as inclement weather - just a lack of adequate gear."

FREE SOUTH AFRICA!

Peace out, guys and gals. Enjoy your week!

Holy Nor-Cal Snowpack, Batman!

2010-05-18T15:23:00.000-07:00

What did you do with your weekend?

Frank and Travis both raced cross-country at the Spring Thaw on Saturday. They placed well, and had a blast!

I should also note up-front that our lovely Sarah Spector - despite being swamped with school, never having any free time to climb, kayak, or do anything fun, and having to work almost every weekend - has at this point only two and a half weeks left at SOU! So, the next time that you happen to be in the store on a Tuesday, a Thursday, the odd-Saturday, or a Sunday, you should congratulate her on her almost-completed Environmental Studies degree! She may still be our morale booster and Hardgoods Buyer-in-training (don't know how she does it all), but she's a damn good student as well. Go Sarah! Now you can come adventure with us on weekends too!

Alright, alright.
Well, this weekend was interesting to say the least.

Because of a general lack of climbing partners, I decided to take a very early season backpacking trip to the Marble Mountain Wilderness, located south and west of Fort Jones, CA. The weather, which was dubiously labeled as partly cloudy, with a chance of thunderstorms and rain, ended up cooperating wonderfully! However, we should have brought our tele gear alongside our backpacking boots. Hiking through knee and waist deep snow - full on saturated springtime snowpack - can rarely be considered a lot of fun. All things considered, an early-season trip like that is always a rare and unique experience. You've gotta be flexible with your plans and expectations. This time, however, every single bit of it was fun. Even the sweaty, wet, and cold parts. In retrospect, I might have chosen less food and no bivy sack just to make room for ski boots.

I took off from work around 5:30 pm on Friday, and was packed, supplied with food, and on the road with my buddy Elliot by seven. By nine p.m. we were at the trailhead - Lover's Camp, several miles off the Scott River Highway. My original motivation was to hike in that same evening, and set up camp in the dark. By the time we'd arrived at the trailhead, a long work day had definitely caught up with me. We made some delicious food, and got a great night's sleep. In the morning, we skipped breakfast and were on the trail by eight. Before noon we had made it to what was essentially the only dry campsite in the entire valley above 5,000 feet. The last several miles were grueling, as the snowpack made progress very tedious. Later that day I did spy some crafty little rock nooks where one could have snagged a bivy further above the valley, but I was satisfied that we'd opted for a lower campsite near the caver's cabin. More access to streams for water. More comfy. We enjoyed a lazy day with a short excursion up to 6,400 feet, got plenty of sun, and were happy to watch the thunderstorms and rain roll right on by to the north.

Definitely a funky sort of trip - half backpacking, half waging war against wet snow. The whole time I was wishing i'd had the determination to pack in tele gear, but the original mission this weekend was to check out what the season had in store for us down in northern California. I didn't feel like packing 30+ lb. in for an overnight. I have to admit that the skiing definitely would have been worth it, however. The Marbles have a much higher than average snowpack right now - every single creek and river I saw was busting at the seams. This definitely means we're going to have a lovely and long backpacking season - with the best trips being taken later in the summer. Elliot and I also saw a 150-200 foot overhanging wall, with tons of pumpy climbing, and some tiny cracks - all in beautiful rock! The face was located about three miles up from Lover's Camp, off the trail. Very inspiring. Backpacking trips this summer might have to be modified to include a combination of climbing, caving, and trekking! Anyone who wishes to join is more than welcome.

And alas, now it is Tuesday. Friday seems so, so far away.

Don't let it get you down though. The ability to keep yourself stoked on the little stuff is invaluable. And don't forget your chocolate. I find that it's almost impossible to face a day head-on without a little chocolate.

I know the weather this week isn't going to be ideal, but get out for that trail-run! Meet up with AOS climbers at the Rogue Rock Gym or our local crags after work! I'm always stoked on outdoor climbing (Frank too) basically at any time of the day - including after dark.

Also, I should note that if anyone can come up with a successful way to get Bryant Helgeland climbing outside on a given afternoon/evening, I'll definitely buy that successful motivator the next round at the Creek, or wherever he or she holds their evening forays into the mysterious and relaxing. Seriously, I ask him every day. *Sigh*

Before I go, I have to add that if you've got an adventure idea that you think the AOS crew would like to know about (this includes just about everything), then stop on by and propose your weekend expedition, or share your story with us! We get stoked on other people's ideas, and we love hearing about your adventures as well.

We'll see you out there, enjoy the crazy southern Oregon weather this week!

The calamitous lack of conviction

2010-05-14T14:15:00.000-07:00

Ah, spring. We've really got it lucky, living in this valley.

Winter's still got us in what occasionally appears to be a slipping, sliding, full-handed pinch, but the 'sunny season' is here!

Lucky enough, it would seem that in the Rogue Valley we're never stuck with the true brunt of a 'season'. For example, last week we were able to enjoy five or six different types of weather in one day! Was it Tuesday, or Wednesday maybe? Seriously, what other donut hole location experiences such diversity of weather? Absolutely nutty.

I digress.

A calamitous lack of conviction has been recently brought to my attention.

Conviction, you say? Of what type? In this context, I speak of the most valuable type of conviction. The best type of conviction. My favorite conviction. The act of devoting every ounce of energy towards a single goal: to pursue incredibly awesome and ambitiously unyielding adventure, always. As much as possible. Uh. Every day.

Local adventure enthusiasts are shaking their heads in dismay. And those who have more free time... are laughing mercilessly.

Work leaves little time for play, as it would seem. Even the most dedicated weekend warrior finds that weekends these days leave scarce time to completely satisfy the burning lust for exploration. But we persevere! The 'season' is almost here, and every bit of spare time we can find must be utilized intelligently. In order for us to feel more stoked about this weekend, i've included what I hope is some mild inspiration, and a recap of the last couple weeks' events.

Recent trips worthy of mention, carried out despite lack of truly adequate time:

Yours truly enjoyed a quick climb up Mt. McLoughlin several weekends back. Wonderful snowpack and a beautiful day!

Hardgoods buyer and charisma-chief Frank Debaugh came up with the incredible idea to gather firsthand beta on Bigfoot Cave, found in the Marble Mountain Wilderness. In fact, I wouldn't even be here writing this right now! However, this was actually botched because of cold feet. Or perhaps the propensity of getting cold feet? Ground and water temperatures in Bigfoot Cave can cause hypothermia in minutes this time of year. Regardless, it was a brilliant idea, and some people got very excited (He'll get to it soon, with a little help from his friends, and AOS Adventure will be there to cover it).

Frank Debaugh and a crew from Southern Oregon University also killed it at Smith Rock this past weekend. Good climbing all around.

And of course, there is still spring skiing. The tail end of it! Or maybe with how much snow we've had late this season, the midst of it. Define at your leisure.

Anywho,
thanks to Roger Strong and Mike Kurilich, the lovely lads at Black Diamond Equipment Ltd., Bryant Helgeland and I were out to try some sick new backcountry gear, which will be available soon. The four of us - including Bryant's impeccably trained Nanuk - took a fast day trip up Mt. Bailey to enjoy some fine spring skiing. Gorgeous sunny day, and enough vertical to keep us satisfied for the following work week.

It was a great day. As a result, I strongly urge everyone to check out Black Diamond Equipment's super solid line of backcountry ski gear. Those guys are doing an inspiring job of designing skis and boots for next season.

Though the amount of free time for adventure is never enough, we solider on still. Our alpine climbing season will be long this year! And despite a slow start, we've had a killer winter. We all must remember to thank Ullr for his lovely presence this year.

With the weather holding fairly stable, at least one AOS member is off to the south this weekend - early-season backpacking, scoping the snowpack still present in the Marble Mountain Wilderness of northern California! Photos and a full report will be available by next week.

Also, good luck to Travis and Frank, who will be racing in the annual Spring Thaw this weekend. Get 'em boys!

I urge everyone to get outside in the next couple days, whatever that may mean to you. Don't let your lack of undying adventure conviction manifest its ugly head this time around. Go enjoy our lovely valley. May your conviction be strengthened. May your strides be long. May your lungs breathe deep. Go seek adventure!

Bailey Hut Trip

2010-03-08T08:46:00.000-08:00

The Bailey Hut is spoken of in hushed and reverend tones among the backcountry skiing community in the Rogue valley. Surprisingly, there isn't a lot of good beta on the hut and securing a trip can be difficult. You have to call early to get the good dates and it's always a gamble with the winter weather. However, if your trip has good snow conditions and beautiful weather then get ready for some of the best skiing!

Hut Details
Phone: 541.498.2531

Reservation: Open around the 14th or 15th of September every year.

Parking: Park at the Three Lakes Trail Snow Park

Skin in: budget for 2.5 hours

Cabin: Three story A-Frame. Second and Third floors are for sleeping and main level is for cooking and hanging out by the fireplace. There is a bathroom! It is located off the back side of the main floor. Bring your own TP!

Kitchen: There is a table to cook on and a couple big pots for melting water on the fireplace. Bring your own stove, cookware, and food.

Bailey Hut 360 from Travis Caldwell on Vimeo.

Lighting: You can burn candles on the main floor, but a good lantern goes a long long ways.

Firewood: The cabin is stocked with firewood, but funding is low and if you have the ability to bring in your own firewood it is a tremendous help.

Drive Time: From Ashland head North on I5. Take the Crater Lake exit and get onto Crater Lake highway. Stay on Crater lake highway until it turns into hwy 230. Continue on hwy 230 until you reach the Three Lakes Trail snow park. The snow park will be on your left. The drive will take approximately 2hrs as long as the roads are clear. If there is bad weather allocate more time for driving there.

Trail: Take the cat-track from the parking lot for a couple miles and take a right (towards Diamond Lake) at the first intersection you come to. Within the first couple hundred yards the trail to the cabin starts up on the left. This portion of the trail is non-groomed and the only tracks are from previous skiers.

Summiting: The summit is roughly a three hours skin from the hut. There are a couple of routes to the summit. You can go straight from the hut up the ridge, or you can make your way to the bowl on the east side and then up through the heart of the bowl to the summit. Both options are within minutes of each other to the summit.

Don't Forgets (besides all your AVI gear): Sun Block, Chap-stick, Lantern, Cards and or other games to kill the time in the hut. A GPS is a great tool to have on this trip!

East Face Bowl on Mount Bailey

You could ski Mount Bailey for weeks straight and still not explore all the lines it has to offer. There are some very tight shoots and rock bands to drop for advanced riders, but there are also mellower that are easily skied by someone in the intermediate ability range.

View of Mount Thielsen

Snowmachines are allowed on the cat track and other designated area's on the mountain. They are not allowed on the trail to the hut, so getting your food and supplies into the hut is all man/women powered. Sleds are a nice way to carry a lot of stuff, but they get heavy, so be sure to take turns cause you don't want to wear yourself out before you start the skiing.

If you have any questions about your upcoming trip to mount bailey that was not addressed here please feel free to call, 541.488.1202, or email Websales!

Please Insert Adventure Here

2010-01-06T09:10:00.001-08:00

If there is one thing an injury does its provide you with down time. If there is one thing that couch time provides is an opportunity for the imagination to do it's thing. If there is one thing that I do well it's think up big imaginative schemes and ideas. My idea's around adventures usually get crazier with every passing day that I don't get my adventure fix. Therefore, I think it may be needless to say, but 2010 is going to be full of epic trips.

Here is just a taste of the type of stuff that we will be doing: Attempting a Ski Mountaineering trip to summit six Cascade peaks in six days, attempting to kayak from the plaza in Ashland to the Pacific Ocean, go rafting in at least two new countries even if they are neighboring ones, winter approach multi-pitch climbing, and a spattering of other expadentures such as local adventure running, climbing, skiing, biking, and boating trips.

The other effort that will be made this year in our adventure posts is more details on how we pulled off the trip along with beta on where to stay, shop, eat, and etc. There will also be more photo documentation of the trips and hopefully good video too.

So please stay tuned and if you have any ideas for a cool adventure let us know.

Smith River Gorges

2009-12-23T11:47:00.000-08:00

A couple weekends ago I awoke to 20 degree temperature and and ice/frost combo on the ground. I decided to do the most logical thing, GO BOATING!

Frankie taking his sweet time!

There was four of us going (myself, Dan, Frank, and Chris), so we took an 11.5" raft to r3 and then a creek boat kayak for the 4th. We weren't sure what to expect from the gorges because the flows were quite a bit lower (500cfs in the Middle Fork) then we would have liked. But it didn't prevent us from making a day of it.

We ran the Middle Fork first. Because the flow was so low some of the rapids were a bit tighter and steeper making them really fun. The continuos 1.5 mile run went really fast! We ran the South Fork Gorge second, and it was even lower flow so it was even tighter and steeper and faster. We had good clean lines, no swimmers, no carnage, and a lot of cold water winter boating fun.

Oregon Hole
Photo Credit: Will Volpert

The Smith River is by far one of the most gorgeous river's in our area. The combination of the clear water, the california warmth, and the redwoods is unbeatable, and if you time it right you can see some massive Salmon. The easy road-side access also makes logistics a breeze for shuttling and doing multiple runs in the same day. There is also a lot of variety in the difficulty level which can accommodate all skill and comfort levels.

Dan somewhere in the South Fork
Photo Credit: Will Volpert

There are a lot of different write ups out there about the Smith, but here are our favorites: California Creek's, and Oregon Rafting.

Moab Utah

2009-10-29T07:27:00.001-07:00

Meca: "The biggest, best thing. The most mega." (Urban Dictionary) There are few locations that can truly be described as the meca for their sport. Moab is one of those location, and is most definitely the rock climbing meca.

The reddish colored sandstone walls and towers loom in the distance as you approach, and they only get bigger, bigger, and bigger. There is an endless amount of climbing to be done, so be prepared and don't let it overwhelm you.

My recommendation for camping is to take a left on Hwy 128 just after you cross the Colorado on your way into Moab. Roughly 7 miles up the road will be Big Bend Campground. It is a BLM maintained camp ground and is very nice as well as reasonably priced $10/night. It is conveniently located in the middle of the majority of climbing locations. Castleton Tower is about 10 miles further up the river, and Wall Street is about 10 miles the other direction. The added bonus to Big Bend Campground is the bouldering (Big Bend Boulders in the guide books) is right across the street. Big Bend Boulders is a phenomenal place to bolder and following suite to all of Moab has some very challenging routes.

For climbing there isn't a much cooler place the Wall Street (aka Potash Road). It also offers an assortment of climbing level's including a few top-rope options. All the belaying could be done from the roof of you Winnebago with the tunes bumping. Just make sure you don't deck out on the hood. Beyond Wall Street, if you can climb 5.12 and have a lot of gear then you will be in heaven because the options are almost endless and only stifled by your physical ability and gear budget.

Water! It is the dessert after all, so you will need and consume a lot of water. There is a natural spring on the right hand side of the Hwy 128 when you turn off for Big Bend. It's the water that all the outfitters and who's-who's use. Drink at your own risk and if your paranoid filter it.

While your in town there is a nice laundromat, grocery store, and hostel (lazy lizard) if you don't want to camp. Also, be sure to go into Pagan Mountaineering while your there. The staff is a great resource, and they carry some pretty cool stuff too.

Whatever you do, do not poach camping. The area is patrolled heavily, and they will issue you or your group a ticket. Which, speaking from experience, is not the best way to start your morning.

Lost Rocks

2009-10-02T19:17:00.000-07:00

Stemming from the inspiration of my last post about Lost Rocks and the fact that I hadn't been there in a couple years a crew of us adventured back to the epic land of boulders. There is something completely awesome about climbing on the beach. I don't know if it is the salt in the air, the gigantic waves crashing on the beach, rotting sea life carcasses, or the insanely good bouldering problems that makes this my favorite bouldering spot.

This trip we ended up camping in a turnout the first night. It was a perfect little campsite, and we quickly worked through setting up and eating so we could get some rest. We were up early so again we made quick work of eating and tearing down camp. We were hiking into the bouldering area by 9 am.

There beach has changed a lot in the 3 years since I was there, and a problem that I had been eager to work on again was no longer climbable. Which was a little disappointing, but also forced me to explore more climbs. We climbed hard for the morning and around lunch time decided to hike out so we could eat and get our camping equipment and camp on the beach.

Night two was an awesome night camping right on the beach, watching the sunset, playing card games, campfire, and meeting new friends. We were not moving nearly as quickly the next morning though. The long day left us stiff and tired. After slowly getting out of our sleeping bags, eating breakfast, and stretching we set out for some more climbing. One route in particular that Mimi and I had been working on was at the top of the list.

After making quick work of the problem that had eluded us the day before we decided to leave on a high note. Milkshakes were on our minds and we stopped as quickly as we could to indulge cravings. We ended up gorging ourselves before waddling back into the car and voyaging home. Luckily we made it home just in time for dinner!

A few lagistical updates: #1 The drive from Ashland takes almost exactly 3 hours no matter how you roll the dice. #2 The turnout on the right that has the trail head is the Flint Ridge Trail head. The Flint Ridge trail is on the left of the road, follow the trail down the beach. #3 Wear proper shoes. Fling hike in and scramble along the beach will be made much easier with a good pair of approach shoes.

Expadentures at Altivation on Lamorial Day Weekend

2009-09-10T11:39:00.001-07:00

I live by several philosophies. One of the main philosophies is that the last weekend of summer has to be epic! Okay, so that isn't actually a philosophy that I live by, but I did decide this year that I wanted to cap off summer and launch into fall with a good solid adventure filled weekend. As the weekend drew closer I was getting very nervous about the likelihood of any adventure happening because flow's were down, people were out, and weather was getting bad. But we rolled with the punches and kept the adventure weekend alive. Since funding for the weekend was tight we had to come up with idea's that were not going to break the bank, and since not everyone had a four day weekend we had to stay fairly close to home.

Day 1 - Friday
We started off the weekend with a fun and easy float down on the Klamath River. The section is known as the Tree of Heaven run. It is a solid class II run with arguably the best play wave around thrown in for good measure. While it doesn't offer much in the way of excitement, it does offer a relaxing day on the water and in the sun. You know this because it is always sunny in California. We brought a 12' raft and frame and a playboat kayak. We used the raft, but strapped the kayak down as a stern ornament for the day. We had a couple good attempts at surfing the raft in the playwave and a good lunch/dinner along the bank.

(It was later that we found out that there was an algae bloom warning for this section and it was being advised to not have contact with the water)

As we drove back north through Ashland Frank jumped out of the car and Wrenna and I continued on to the North Fork of the Rogue River near Union Creek. We crept/snuck into the Abbot Creek Camp Ground a little after midnight and quickly setup our tent and crawled inside.

Day 2 - Saturday
We awoke and maintained a leisurely morning eating oatmeal and slacklining, and then we were off to Mount Thielsen. From where we were camped Thielsen was a short 45-minute drive. Early on into the hike we could see a weather system moving towards the mountain, and a fair number of hikers heading the opposite direction we were. However, we continued to push on through, and as we reached the tree line we were embraced by the wind and rain that had been scaring everyone else away. Not to be deterred by mother-nature we dawned our rain wear and pushed on.

Once we reached an upper section of the ridge where the coverage was non-existent we sat with our faces turned into the wind and felt the rain and wind prickle our faces until we were good and cold. Being content with embracing mother-nature we headed down off the ridge. On the descent I realized that I have no grasp for time or distance when it comes to hiking. I was shocked at how long it took us to get back to the trailhead. Also, not having done much hiking all summer long, my feet and legs were very happy to be back to the car and back in my Chaco's. By the time we got back to camp we had enough time to cook some food and collect firewood. I think that campfire might be my favorite part of camping (side note: I hate the word camping and you will probably read a blog post soon about that).

Day 3 - Sunday
Seeing as breakfast is the most important meal of the day we again took our time eating more oatmeal and doing some more slacklining before heading out to Mount McLoughlin. Driving to the trail head took longer then estimated because the obvious directions weren't so obvious. Once you are on the gravel road continue straight to the parking lot. Do not take the right turn that says McLoughlin Trail.

McLoughlin is a sweet hike. The trail doesn’t stay flat for very long and becomes rather steep quickly. The forest is really beautiful, and once we got above the tree line the views became spectacular. I was really shocked at how far we hiked before we reached the tree line. From the road McLoughlin deceivingly looks bare. Unfortunately, for a second day the weather was not very cooperative. The storm from the day before deposited ice on the summit, so combining that with high winds, cold temperature, and waning sun we had to forgo the summit on day two as well.

The descent was quick and a bit painful do to the steepness and our legs being tired from the previous day’s hike. We jammed it out and headed back into Ashland for a quick presentation for isBreathing , reloaded, refueled, and picking up Frank. We were back out at camp before we new it enjoying the campfire and the evenings dessert.

Day 4 - Sunday
Unfortunately, we slept through our put-on time we had planed with Bryant and Johannah, so to make up for it we ate. We cooked up a big egg scramble cooked over the open flame and then took down camp and headed to the put in for the River Bridge section of the Rogue River.

The day was hot, but the water was, as always, super cold. So at the heat of the day we inflated the raft, rode the bike shuttle, and dawned our dry suits. River Bridge is currently sitting at the top of my favorites list for a day run. The rapids are technical drops but low consequence and the scenery is beautiful and offer solitude. This time of year the flow is pretty low which made for a bumpy and boney ride. We encountered a couple logs in the river that couldn’t be avoided and required us to line the boat around them. There were a lot of moves that had to be made in this 5-mile stretch of river and all of them were tight. Frank and Wrenna were awesome bow paddlers and got really good at bouncing off of rocks and down the river. By the time we hit the reservoir at the end of the run I had sweated close to my body weight into my (aka Franks) drytop, so I let the other two row the rest of the way and I relaxed and started re-hydrating. The drive back to Ashland was a quiet one, and not because excitement wasn’t filling our bones, but because exhaustion was more set in.

I have to say that Labor Day weekend 09 was on of the best weekends I have had all summer and was just some good old fashion adventuring! It definitely was inspiring and rejuvenating. Plus, it gave me time to plot and work angles for more adventures to come.

We want to give a special thanks to the SOU Outdoor Program for the use of the raft, and to The Ashland Outdoor Store for a long weekend.

Lost Rocks

2009-08-20T09:04:00.000-07:00

It has been a couple years since I have been to lost rocks, but I've come across some pictures rescently of that trip and it has inspired me to head back there. The lost rocks bouldering area is currently my favorite bouldering location.

It is located on the Northern (when I say Northern I mean as far north as you can get) coast of California. Driving from Ashland you head to Crescent City and then south along the coast. Drive until you get to a bridge that has golden bears on each side of the bridge and then take the next exit. At the stop sign take a left. Rhere is a car camping option if you want hookups, bathrooms, and water. This option isn't expensive but not exactly cheap either. If you are going the cheap route there is a free spot to camp. Follow the road until it turns to gravel and then roughly 1/2 mile later on the right there is a turnout, and that is where you can camp for free.

Just before the road turns to gravel it takes a 90 degree turn to the left. At the apex of the corner there is a driveway and a gate. This driveway (while can be an access to the beach and climbing) is also part of a Native American holy ground. In the past there has been issue's between the Native American's and climbers because the climbers have used/misused this area to get to the bouldering on the beach. It is my current understanding that the tension has been resolved, but please be respectful, and my recommendation is to use the alternative access to the beach.

The alternative access is further up the road from the free camp spot. There is an official lookout complete with a bathroom. At the lookout there is a trail head. Depending on the time of year and how frequently the trail has been used it can be fairly or excessively overgrown so be prepared.

Once you are down on the beach there is a lot of climbing. I still use a crash pad but many don't because the sand is soft for landing. However, there are a couple highballerish problems that I have fallen from and have been very happy to have my crash pad upon impact. If you feel like hauling a rope and your sport climbing rack with you there is a ridiculously hard rope route that is hidden and you have to find it. Personally, I don't think it is worth it but now you know it's there and is an option if you can find it.

There is a new book out Northern California Bouldering by Chris Summit and crew that has some info on the boulder problems. And, so far it is the best printed resource that I know of for the area. I would recommend making a weekend trip out of your visit to Lost Rocks. A good two to three days provides you with enough time to fully explore and not get bored. If you have time on the drive there during the summer time there are a lot of good swimming holes along the Smith river that offer a refreshing break.

Don't forget your binoculars because there is some really good whale watching spots. Also, it's the coast so be prepared for cool weather, and remember that you are climbing in a very dynamic area so don't forget about the tides changing.

Wagner's Chuck's Chips

2009-07-14T10:00:00.000-07:00

Went exploring a new trail last night. The trail is Chucks Chips and it is out in Wagner trail system out side of Talent. HOLLY CRAP!!! This is a preemo trail system, and I was very impressed.

Frank and I parked at the bottom of the trail and rode up the Forest Service road to the trail head for Chuck's Chips. This was both of ours first time riding this trail, so we didn't really know what to expect. I find exploration riding really fun because I don't know what is around the next corner. However, on this ride a lot of what came around the next corner was intimidating and technical with narrow paths, big jumps, log bridge crossings, BIG jumps, steep descents, bermed and banked turns, and creek crossings.

Even though it was our first time on this trail we didn't hold anything back. Bombing every drop, jump, and all the steeps. But with every punch we threw at old Chuckyboy he returned the favor with a good jab or left cross, and oh man did he pack a punch. I think I might pee blood for a week. I went down as hard as I ever have mountain biking, and Frank took a couple faceplants along the way. Although, I guess we got the last laugh as we successfully made it out alive.

All-n-all, the trails out in the Wagner area are by far some of the best mountain biking I have ever done anywhere hands down. However, a couple thoughts of wisdom. This trail system is more remote then most of the trails in the Ashland area, so I would recommend not going alone. There is a lot of Logging going on in the area; which, makes the trail system even more risky. Please be safe but ride hard!

Mt Ashland Gravity Ride

2009-06-05T08:42:00.000-07:00

As a competitive cyclist, avid mountain biker, backcountry skier, and climber I am all about the up as well as the much deserved adrenaline-overload-down. Now, the easier and faster I can complete the up the sooner I can get to the down. One of the best descriptions of this mentality I have ever heard was stated by our Black Diamond rep. Kurly described it as, "Usain Bolt up and Usain Bolt down!" Which, is why ounces get counted on all my equipment. I say all this to establish the fact that I feel you have to earn the downhill.

Frank taking his sweet time!

Mike trying to stay warm waiting for Frank

Well, all that being said, recently I was talked into doing my first every gravity ride with two of my coworkers. Normally this concept goes against everything I stand for and believe in. But, it sounded like something fun to do after a long day of work.

A trail view

We shuttled our bikes up to the top of Mount Ashland via Franks car. Within a couple minutes of enduring the cool refreshing gale of wind we were on our mountain bikes rolling down the path. We were meet with very little snow on the path for the time of year. From the very top of the mountain you ride down a forest service road until you come to an intersection. The intersection is a little confusing on your first ride, so make sure you stop and check the trail map that is posted there if you have any unsure feelings about where to go.

Mike (left) and Frank (right) tearing it up!

We descended, descended, and kept descending! It was awesome. Once we got down to the second intersection (Four Corners) we got off the forest service road and took the single track the rest of the way down. Our ride time was a little slow, but we were still done by dark. It was an awesome way to end the day.

Despite the fact that the concept of a gravity ride goes against my conscience, I will definitely be doing it again.

Hagg Lake

2009-06-01T11:21:00.000-07:00

Hagg Lake is located south of Forest Grove Oregon. For those of you who do not know where Forest Grove is. Forest Grove is located approximately 20 miles west of Portland. Hagg Lake, in my humble opinion, offers the best single track mountain biking in the greater Portland area.

The trail is well maintained and the bulk of it is heavily shaded. The shade traps in the wonderful moisture that the Willamette valley has and keeps the trail nice and muddy. The climbs on the trail were moderate and there were only a couple of really technical steep descents.

Frank and I rode the trail for the first time and had a blast. There were a couple different spots where we had our bikes sunk up to the hubs in muddy-swampy-crude.

It was a fun change from the trail conditions and profiles we are use to riding in the Ashland water shed. My only complaint about the trail is it could use more features e.g. jumps, but there was a really fun log ride!

Ride time: 1:51.52
Distance: 13.1 miles
Elevation Gain: 1985 feet
Elevation Loss: 1988 feet
Fun Meter: HIGH!

Applegate Lake

2009-05-26T12:30:00.000-07:00

Frank and I have been on a search for local areas that offer true single track cross country mountain biking. So, last Sunday we went and mountain biked around Applegate lake. It was the first time I had been out there this spring, and it was Frank's deflowering trip.

We parked at French Gulch trail head. To get there you have to drive across the dam, and it is the first parking lot on your right. We started out by riding across the dam and picking the trail up on the north west corner of the lake.

The very first section of the trail is called "Da-Ku-Be-Te-De." I feel that it is the hardest part of the entire ride. The trail surface is large loose rock and the drop off to the lake is steep which makes this sections of the trail sketchy. But we cruised through it no problem despite the fact that I had forgotten to unlock my shocks.

There were some freshly fallin tree's and logs covering the trail, but they were easy to hope over. We made good time and we were back out on the road before we new it. The lake was really busy, but we encountered very few people actually on the trail. Most were just fishing off of the banks.

Once we were on the south east side of the lake we really started to pick up the pace because we were nervous about not having enough day light. But, we flew along and were back at the car before dark.

We started at 6:30 pm. The ride took us 1:50 but our ride time was less then 1:40, so we were back to the car before dark. The route we took was 17.5 miles and had 1950 feet of elevation gain. It was a good trip and a fun ride. My only disappointment was that Frank didn't crash!

Brown Mountain Weekend

2009-03-15T05:53:00.001-07:00

Participants: Travis & Frank

Agenda: Skiing Mountain Ashland, Brown Mountain, and Mount Baily

Gear Used: Black Diamond MegaWatt's, Subaru Outback, cheap ass compass, PBR, Tracker beacon's, Mammut Nirvana pack, Fritchi Explorer bindings, and a Timex watch.

Special Note: Check out the route: RideWithGPS

Let's start this adventure with a quick announcement. Lava fields and compasses don't like each other!

My fellow coworker, roommate, and buddy Frank and I where suppose to raft the Illinois river this weekend with Will. Will, currently, is the man! However, due to flow's, weather, living situation, and the fact that Will lives in Portland the trip got canceled at the last minute.

Frank and I where not about to let a weekend off go wasted!

Friday night we went skiing and plotted our weekend of skiing. It was a great intro and warm up. Plus! I got to ski my new ski's for the first time. :) Night skiing on Mount A is by far one of my most favorite activities. While shredding the epic Mt A we decided to hit the Backcountry for the weekend and go check out Brown Mountain and Mount Baily. Both spots are suppose to be some of the best Backcountry skiing in the region and since we are both new to the Backcountry society we figured it was time to check them out.

We couldn't get an early start Saturday because my cliche, aka Subaru Outback, was dead and we had to drop it off so my battery could get charged. But that's a whole other story. We left Ashland around 9:30am and we headed out hwy 140 to Brown Mountain. Brown is suppose to be the easier of the two spots. After driving for a while we got to the general vicinity and could see Brown off to the south. The only beta we had was that there was a pullout on the north side of the road and that from there it was supper straight forward. That's bull shit! There are a lot of different pullout's on both sides of the road and it's not that straight forward.

After driving the same stretch of the hwy three times we finally found a pullout that we decided would work. Geared up, crossed the road, and started the ascent. Ascent is an epic word. The climb was fairly straight forward, and there were a lot of tracks. If anyone say's that Brown Mountain is quiet and a peaceful place to ski then they are full of shit and you shouldn't believe a word he/she ever say's again. It's a snowmobiler's paradise. It was very entertaining watching the snowmachiners rip around the mountain. Their tracks fucked up the untouched powder fields but whatever, seeing a snowmobile roll over the rider and down the hill was worth it.

As we neared the summit a storm started to roll in, so we decide to forgo the last pitch and start skiing. The skiing was interesting. Typical Cascade concrete! Heavy snow that was rutted out by snowmo tracks. We did find some pitch's and meadow's of nice light fluffy snow, but for the most part the snow was pretty cruddy and kicked our ass's.

And then we got lost.

Both Frank and I thought that we had skied down to the right, east, of our skin up and therefore when we got down into the tree line we started skiing west to get back to our tracks and car. However, we later figured out that we had in fact skied to the left of our tracks, which was why none of the terrain looked familiar. I think this was the point where I said, "man, it's no wonder people get lost in the woods!" We knew the general direction of where we wanted to go, North. But, the lava fields kept throwing off the compass bearings. We would head North and then check the compass and it would say were were heading South, East, West, or any direction other then North. After doing a couple complete circles we started to get frustrated and annoyed, but we stayed calm! We set the watch timer for 10 minutes and we started heading "North." At the end of the 10 minutes we would reevaluate our location and situation and determine if we wanted to proceed or change course. This method worked really well. After 30 minutes we connected with the PCT and within the next 10 Minutes we had reached hwy 140. We were only about five miles west of the car, but we weren't skiing circles in the lava fields anymore.

After 4.5 hours of touring, and 30 minutes of skiing were both very glade to get back to the car and the beer. We powered up with PBR's and Backpackers Pantry's chili and then motored into Klamath Falls for the night. Both exhausted, we bailed on the Baily portion of our trip and decided to ski Mount A again on Sunday. But we didn't and we completely wimped out.

Is 2/3 completion a passing grade?

Climbing Mount Shasta

2009-01-08T10:40:00.000-08:00

Mount Shasta is one of the largest peaks in the Cascade mountain range. The summit lies over 14,000 feet from sea level, and in order to reach that point, if you take the popular route, you will have to climb around 7,000 feet. Now, if you intend to summit Mt. Shasta or hike above 10,000 feet you will have to pay a small fee. The fee helps pay for Ranger's so it is a good thing.

If it is going to be your first time climbing Mt. Shasta I would recommend starting at the Bunny Flat trail head. From there the trail will take you to Horse Camp. Horse Camp is right at the tree line and has a shelter and a care taker. The care takers (there is always at least two) work in week long shifts and are a huge resources. And, in the case of an emergency he/she is usually the first responder, so stop and say hi.

From Horse Camp you will make your way up to Helen Lake at 10,400 feet. Helen Lake is a good spot to camp over night if you want to break up the climb. During a busy weekend it will get crowded and finding a spot to pitch a tent can get difficult, so keep that in mind. I personally have never camped there because I don't see the point. But, it could be fun if you had a couple days and wanted to summit more then once.

From Helen Lake you will climb almost 4,000 more feet to the summit. Along the way you will climb up the Heart and pass the Red Banks. You will definitely want a helmet for these sections. Just like that your at the summit.

During the early season the return trip is speed up by glissading down parts of the climb, which is my favorite part about mountaineering. Also, another note about Mt. Shasta is that the weather can change very quickly, so pay attention!

My First post

2008-12-04T15:29:00.000-08:00

This is just a test.

I will be creating much more beneficial and festinating posts very soon. But, first things first, I have to learn how this whole "internet" thing works.

Now, you might be thinking, what is this bozo doing? That is a very legitimate question to ask. My response is, I don't know. For right now I am just goofing off as much as possible and so far it is going pretty well. But in the future I will be posting on various topics which include, but are not limited to: adventure advice, gear reviews, Q&A, and whatever is on the top of my soapbox for the day.

Please stay tuned.